I want to be a university student again!

I loved university. It suited the geek in me who just loves to study. I actually attended lectures and read the set texts. I was a French studies student, so there were lots of opportunities to have self important conversations about existentialism and other such things, and I do self importance very well. I've never regretted my choice of study, it did exactly what it said on the tin: challenged my mind, expanded my horizons and opened doors for me to help me live the life I wanted. But this week, I've developed the desire to study polymer science, or maybe engineering, particularly at Yamagata University here in Japan.
Why such a specific desire? Well, according to this week's Daily Yomiuri newspaper, students in those departments at that university have been working to develop a new style of cream puff. How cool is that? They basically use their scientific knowledge to work out how to use rice to make the perfect cream puff. They have spent their time experimenting with mixtures and gradually developing a new, more delicate mixture using the excess rice produced in that area of Japan. In my mind, that means lots of left over, imperfect creme puffs, which I would like to volunteer to get rid of. In my stomach.
These students were participating in an event at a Shinjuku's Takashimaya department store, in which students from all over Japan demonstrated how technology can be used to update traditional Japanese foods. Humanities student from another university in Shizuoka Prefecture developed a traditional style lunch box, called Tanto Fujisan, by researching products produced in the area surrounding the famous Mount Fuji. In many cases, these traditional foods are produced by small, family businesses, and the students have helped them to come together to improve their business.
For me, this is a typically Japanese event. Generally speaking, Japanese people are proud of their traditions and yet equally fascinated by technology. Combining the two is the natural next step to that. I just wish there had been a way of combining French studies with cakes. Oh, wait, I did manage to make eating eclairs an important part of my year abroad. Cultural awareness and all that...

Another reason why North Korea is a scary country to live next to

This week in Japan, and elsewhere I'd imagine, the news has been filled with news about North Korea making threats in response to South Korea/American military exercises in the sea around the Korean peninsula. Obviously, the thought of any kind of crazy dictator being in control of any kind of weapon is scary, but being just across the sea makes it all a bit more real for Japanese people. But also this week was another story that never ceases to amaze me. It's not a new story but it has continued for many years and, every time I hear about it, I'm shocked. It reads like a really bad McCarthyist movie, but I promise you this is a true story.
(I should note, I'm not sure how much of an international story this is, so forgive me if I'm telling things you already know)
The story begins in November 1977, when Megumi Yokota, a 13 year old girl living in Niigata with her family, was late back from badminton practice. After an extensive search, the police failed to find any trace of her. Sniffer dogs followed her scent to a point about 5 minutes from her house, where she just seemed to vanish. For 20 years, the family had no news of Megumi and had to try to continue with their lives.
Twenty years later, in January 1997, her father, Shigeru, received a call from a Diet (Japanese Parliament) member with some shocking news. Megumi was alive in North Korea. At this point, the details were fuzzy.
A testimony by a woman believed to have been involved in a North Korean bomb attack on a South Korean plane in 1987 had mentioned being trained by a Japanese woman kidnapped by North Korea. Other North Korean operatives talked about a young girl taken from the coast of Japan and brought to North Korea and forced to learn the Korean language. Gradually, Megumi's parents have pieced together the story with the assistance of Kenji Ishidaka, a documentary producer who has been able to put them in contact with some spies from North Korea. They even met with the man who took Megumi. It seems Megumi has been working at  Kim Jong-il Political and Military University training people in Japanese. North Korean operatives admitted that they were sent to Japan with the intention of kidnapping Japanese citizens. For many years, the North Korean government denied any involvement in the disappearance of Megumi and other abductees.
In 2002, the North Korean government, under pressure from the Japanese government, eventually admitted kidnapping Megumi, but claimed she had died, leaving behind a daughter. They said that 5 adductees were alive, 8 were dead and 2 more had never entered Korea. They even went so far as to send Megumi's bones to her family. However, when the bones were tested, they were not a match for Megumi. The 5 abductees who were living returned to Japan in 2002, but North Korea continued to claim Megumi had died in hospital in 1993. And so her family's trauma continued.
The Yokota family did not meet Megumi's daughter, Kim Hye-gyong, because they felt that it would be a propaganda exercise on the part of North Korea and could damage their long term campaign to meet their daughter again. In what must have been a heart-breaking decision, they followed the advice of those helping them, and declined an invitation to meet their Granddaughter and the man claiming to have been Megumi's husband.
Last week, the woman who was found guilty of the airline bombing in the mid-eighties came to Japan. She was transported by private plane and stayed at the home of the former Prime Minister, Hatoyama -san. Megumi's parents went to meet her. Sadly, they received very little new information about their daughter, only that she kept cats in her home. After thirty years, they are still fighting to get valuable information about their daughter.
The Yokota's are now in their late seventies and are afraid time is running out. They are such a gracious couple. The visit last week would have left any parent incredibly frustrated, but the Yokota's are grateful for anything they can learn about Megumi. They say it helps them to feel close to her.
They have been fighting and campaigning for over ten years, and have coped with their daughter's absence for more than thirty years. The 13 year old girl they last saw leaving to go to school is now in her 40s. They can only hope that they will be able to meet her one day. All the rest of us can do is help them by keeping the story active.I know it reads like a crazy spy novel, but it is a true story, and a pretty scary one at that.

Summer time and the living is... sweaty.

Ah! Summer weekends are great aren't they? After last week's mountain climbing expedition, I've been enjoying a leisurely day, trying, and failing, not to sweat too much.

This morning, I met a friend and had a delicious lunch courtesy of her lovely parents, went to the fabric shop to stock up on necessary items for the sewing project that's kind of bumbling along. Bearing in mind that I have absolutely no sewing skill and the book I'm using to help me is all in Japanese, I think I'm doing reasonably well.

Back at home, I did some work on an article I'm writing (which I only include because it makes me sound way cooler than I really am), and then dozed in front of multiple episodes of The Mentalist. If you haven't seen the show, it's an American Police drama about the California Bureau of Investigation who have a mentalist on their staff. A mentalist, according to the opening credits, is a person who can intuit people's true thoughts. It's a very good show, Simon Baker is a great actor, and the stories are interesting enough to keep my attention. Unless, it would seem. it's a very hot summer's day, when even a well-written crime drama won't stop me from dozing off, which is a bad idea when the channel is showing several episodes in a row. Waking up in the middle of the next episode is disorienting to say the least.

Following a salad dinner, chosen because of the lack of stove time, I'm now listening to Chris Moyles' Golden Hour on BBC Radio 1 over the internet. In my old apartment, this was a weekly ritual, but I haven't listened to it for ages. If you haven't heard it, it's basically an hour of retro tunes, the first half hour being all from the same mystery year and the second half being chosen by the show's team. Being of a similar age to the team, I'm guaranteed to hear a few old favourites. A great end to top off a lovely summer's day.

What did you do this fine summer's day? If, indeed, it is summer where you are.

Culture Corner

Here in culture corner, I'm going to introduce you to some of my favourite Japanese books and movies, who knows, I may even throw in some songs for you too. My hope is that you'll read about something you like the sound of and give it a go.

Train Man by Nakano Hitori

Train Man is the story of the relationship between Train Man and Hermes, who meet on a train in Tokyo when Train Man stops Hermes and a group of other women being harassed by a drunk. After receiving a thank you gift from the beautiful Hermes, so-called because that's where the thank you gift was bought, Train Man turns to his fellow geeks on a chat site for advice on dating, having no personal experience to lean on. We follow the development of their relationship through the comments and updates on the feed. The geeks on 2 Channel, a popular chat site in Japan, guide Train Man as he makes that all important first phone call, changes his appearance in preparation for their first date and navigates his way into his first relationship.

It's a surprisingly beautiful story, and you can't help but be touched by the help offered by people who, after all, have never met. Train Man is an unlikely hero, he is a porn magazine addicted geek, after all, but he grows as the story progresses and I really found myself rooting for him and Hermes to get together. The most amazing part is that it's actually a real thread from the site, put together by an anonymous writer, known as Nakano Hitori (it means "one of us", according to the book cover). It is a best-selling book that has also spawned a movie, a TV drama and various other spin off products.

If you are into social networking, chatting online, or you simply love a love story, this is a great step into modern Japanese writing.

And there was a mountain

Finally today, I took a break from agonising over my future and climbed a mountain. It stopped raining long enough to get to the top. The world looks different from the top of a mountain, even if it's a mountain shrouded in cloud.
In the next few days, I have to make a big decision about where I want to live and work. It's a scary decision to make for me because it isn't just about me. It's about the friends I have here in Japan and the family I have back in England. It's about the lifestyle I want to have. It's about the job I definitely have versus jobs that may not be available. It's about making the right choice for me and the people I care about.
I guess this is something all ex-pats go through. Deciding to move abroad is a big decision, but deciding to make the move back home is somehow bigger. I've moved around a lot but I've never stayed in the same place as long as I've stayed here, so it feels like home. I have a life here that took time to build. That's not to say I couldn't build a new life back home, it would take time, but it would happen. I've been away so long, home feels like a strange place. Weighing up the options has left me quite worn out. The constant lists of pros and cons making me more confused than ever.
So, yesterday, I tried to forget all about it and enjoy the scenery. In years to come, I will laugh about the time I spent worrying about where to live, and that mountain will still be there, being climbed by other people with things on their minds.

Welcome to the 'hood

The area I live in is pretty cool. It's a pretty old neighbourhood so has loads of interesting buildings. That's kind of unusual in Japan, land of "knock it down and built something bigger". Wandering around the streets of my town keeps me entertained for hours on end. When the rain stops falling for a while, I like to take a walk with my camera. Here are some of the results.

This stack of flower pots always makes me smile. It's as if the owner is so keen on growing plants, they've run out of space. The carport is the only place left.

This little street is between a car park and someone's house. There's usually laundry hanging behind that tree.

I've never quite worked out what this buiding is or was. I think someone lived in the second floor, but I can't really be sure. It can't have been particularly comfortable.

This is my favourite old house in the area. It's so well cared for, so whoever lives here works really hard to keep it looking nice. Usually the old style houses are home to quite old people who aren't up to caring for it properly, so it's wonderful to see an old, well-maintained house.

This looks like it ought to be a shop, but isn't. That green sign is the street sign. Isn't it cute?

The ubiquitous vending machine. No Japanese street is complete without one.

So there you go, a little tour of my neighbourhood. I think you can see why I like it here, right?

Urashima Taro

Every country has it's own tales and myths. Japan is no exception. Like many such tales, Japan's are just a bit bonkers: we're talking thumb-sized boys who end up marrying princesses; a boy who was born from a peach; warty old men who have their warts erased by drunken devils at an all-night dance party; the delicious craziness has surely helped them last through the years. Passed on from generation to generation, these stories have been enjoyed by millions and I have now been added to the fan club.
The last time I had a haircut, the hairdresser entertained me with an insane tale of under the sea shenanigans entitled "Urashima Taro". Let me share it with you.

Urashima Taro

A long long time ago, there was a turtle who lived by the sea. He was a happy turtle, but he was often tormented by the local children. One day the local children tipped the turtle over and left him lying on his back, waving his stumpy turtle legs in the air, feeling utterly humiliated. Fortunately, a kind young man by the name of Urashima Taro was taking a walk on the beach and stopped to help him. The turtle was so grateful he offered to take Urashima Taro for a swim on his back. Urashima Taro was thrilled. He hopped on the back of the turtle and they swam down to a land under the sea. The King of the Land was so grateful to Urashima Taro for helping the turtle, he invited him to a party that lasted for days. There were mermaids and all sorts of fun was had by all.

Finally, Urashima Taro was ready to go home. He asked the Princess to allow him to go home. She was sad to see home go but she accepted his decision. She gave Urashima Taro a gift to take back with him: a box. The box came with only one instruction, it should never be opened. Carrying the box, Urashima Taro jumped on the back of the turtle and swam back to his home by the sea.

When he arrived, he was dumbstruck. His much-loved hometown had totally transformed. His friends were nowhere to be found and his house was in ruins. He realised that the party that had seemed to be only a few days long had, in fact, been hundreds of years. He panicked. What should he do?

He decided his only option was to open the box the Princess had given him, despite her warnings not to.

He slowly opened the box and, suddenly, there was a huge cloud of smoke. Looking in the mirror, Urashima Taro saw that by opening the box, he had aged a hundred years.

And that's the end of the story. There's not even a moral to the tale. But isn't it wonderful? And there are many more like it. Oh and Japanese parties really are that good.

It's raining, it's pouring

This year's rainy season refuses to die. Weeks of waiting for the summer to arrive have left me cranky and impatient. July should be a time of mountain climbing and trips to the beach but this year's heavy rain has put paid to all that. Today's trip to the mountains was called off last night because the forecasted rain could have made conditions treacherous.

Rainy season rain is that utterly joyous kind of rain that bounces off car roofs with a satisfying thwack. It marks a dramatic end to the lethargic stickiness that comes before it. Known as "つゆ" (tsuyu) the rainy season is Japan's most hated season. It brings a daily sensation of sweaty discomfort that no shower can totally erase. However, it also brings the most beautiful green rice fields and mountains, complemented by hydrangeas. The beauty of the ripe fields doesn't quite balance the sleepless nights, though.

In among the nights spent sitting in front of the fan, there are excuses for cold beer and ice cream, making it Japan's most unhealthy season too. There's not really anything else we can do in rainy season, except sit still and hope that stops us sweating, at least for a while.

Once the rain stops, we'll move into summer, another lazy season, but a more comfortable one. There will be, of course, more cold beer and more afternoons lazing next to a fan, but it is a more relaxed, comfortable laziness. It's complemented by the summer high school baseball tournament, known as "Koshien". High schools students from every prefecture travel to Osaka to play in, arguably, the country's most exciting tournament. In the meantime, their classmates attend enforced summer school to prepare for university entrance examinations; Salary men try to pretend they are not uncomfortable in their black suit as they carry on as usual; and elderly people sit in the city's parks and garden's to take a rest in any cool breeze they can get.

But, this year, the rain bursts of June have continued well into July and the hydrangeas are still in full bloom. Guess there's nothing for it but to grab a cold beer and take the chance to do nothing.

GAH!

My first reaction was to throw the computer out of the window. My second to hurl abuse at it. My third to wrench all the cables out in a wild tantrum. Luckily, my fourth was more rational: simply explain what's going on.
Recently, I've been spending my two hour commute merrily writing notes in my groovy blogger's notebook about all the awesome posts I'm going to write to dazzle the people who come across my blog, thus rocketing myself to internet stardom and a career as an amusing and yet wise essayist/social commentator. Great plan, right? Yes, I thought so too.
Sadly, my computer is less reliable than said groovy notebook and has mounted a campaign to deter me from my goal. You see, alongside these awesome posts, I wanted to post some videos. I even made said videos. The problem is they won't upload. At least not today.
So, my inevitable rise to internet celebrity has been postponed until future notice. And my computer lives to see another day...

Free time and how to use it

So, the big test was on Sunday. It went OK, I answered all the questions using the age-old multiple guess technique of "well we haven't had a one in a while, let's go for that.". Who knows? It just might have worked. I feel a heady mixture of joy and relief at not having to spend hours staring at Japanese characters I can't understand, or, more accurately, if I'm honest, feeling bad for watching yet another episode of Without a Trace on cable (What is it with cable stations around the world showing the same episode five times in a week? We're paying for this nonsense people, at least give us a new episode).
The challenge now is finding ways to use all this joyful free time. I have many projects to get on with, but will I? That's the big question.
I have a sewing project I started months ago at a time when I had momentarily forgotten that I actually can't sew. I'm determined to give it another go, but how long that determination will last, I can't tell you.
I really ought to write some letters. I even bought some writing paper in my lunch break a while back in an effort to guilt trip myself into using things I have wasted precious money on. The fact that the shock of receiving a letter from a lazy niece may well push my elderly aunt a little further along the mortal coil is the perfect excuse to put this project off until someone can warn her about the incoming mail.
Normal people cook. I buy random stuff at the supermarket and make weird concoctions. My roommate can cook. It's time I stole some of her recipes.
I seriously need to organise my clothes. I have lost some weight in recent years and I really should get rid of anything that actually falls down. I'm in danger of exposing myself in the worst possible way. Perhaps if I succeed in learning to sew, I can either adjust the clothes I have or make new ones. That may take some time.
There are so many good books to read, I should indulge in a long delayed visit to the library to catch up on my reading. I've recently got into manga in a minor way, and it's the perfect way to put all that studying into practice and read Japanese.
But, my main task in the coming weeks is to work out just what the flippin' 'eck I'm going to do when I finish my current job in a few weeks. My current plan of "taking some time off" is all well and good, but I just know that "taking time off" actually bores me rigid and I should definitely try to keep it to a minimum. Life is so much more fun when you're busy with enjoyable things. I just have to try to find an enjoyable job. Wish me luck people.